Grand Canyon (Overview), Arizona
Table of Contents: Geography
| Geology | Human History
[The Ancestral Puebloans (The Ancient
Ones, or Anasazi), The Modern Hopi,
Other
Cultures] European
Arrival and Settlement [The Spanish Explorers,
American Exploration, Settlement on the
Rim] South Rim Buildings | Activities
| Grand Canyon visitors | References
 The Grand Canyon
is a very colorful, steep-sided gorge, carved by the Colorado River,
in the U.S. state of Arizona. It is largely contained within the Grand
Canyon National Park - one of the first national parks in the United
States. President Theodore Roosevelt was a major proponent of the
Grand Canyon area, visiting on numerous occasions to hunt mountain
lions and enjoy the scenery.
The canyon, created by the Colorado
River cutting a channel over millions of years, is about 277 miles
long, ranges in width from 0.25 to 15 miles, and attains a depth
of more than a mile.
Nearly two billion years of the Earth's
history has been exposed as the Colorado River and its tributaries
cut through layer after layer of sediment as the Colorado Plateaus
have uplifted.
The first recorded sighting of
the Grand Canyon by a European was in 1540, García López de
Cárdenas from Spain.
The first scientific expedition to
the canyon was led by U.S. Major John Wesley Powell in the late
1860s. Powell referred to the sedimentary rock units exposed in
the canyon as "leaves in a great story book". Long
before that, the area was inhabited by Native Americans who built
settlements within the canyon walls.
The Grand Canyon is a very deep -
in places over a mile deep - 277 mile long cut in the Colorado
Plateau that exposes uplifted Proterozoic and Paleozoic strata.
The canyon appears on many versions of the Seven Natural Wonders
of the World list, although none of these lists is by any means
authoritative. The exposed strata are gradually revealed by the
gentle incline beginning in the east at Lee's Ferry and continuing
to Hance Rapid in the west. At the point where the river crosses
the Grand Wash Fault (near Lake Mead) the Canyon ends.
Uplift associated with plate
tectonics-caused mountain building events later moved these
sediments thousands of feet upward and created the Colorado
Plateau. The higher elevation has also resulted in greater
precipitation in the Colorado River drainage area, but not enough
to change the Grand Canyon area from being semi-arid. Landslides
and other mass wasting events then caused headward erosion and
stream capture - all of which tend to increase the depth and width
of canyons in arid environments.
The uplift of the Colorado
Plateau is uneven, resulting in the North Rim of the Grand Canyon
being over a thousand feet higher than the South Rim. The fact
that the Colorado River flows closer to the South Rim is also
explained by this asymmetrical uplift. Almost all runoff from the
plateau behind the North Rim (which also gets more rain and snow)
flows toward the Grand Canyon, while much of the runoff on the
plateau behind the South Rim flows away from the canyon (following
the general tilt). The result is much greater erosion and thus
faster widening of the canyon and its tributary canyons north of
the Colorado River.
Temperatures on the North Rim are
generally lower than the South Rim because of the greater
elevation (8000 feet above sea level). Heavy snowfall is common
during the winter months. Views from the North Rim tend to give a
better impression of the expanse of the canyon than those from the
South Rim.
Geology
The principal consensus among
geologists is that the Colorado River basin (of which the Grand
Canyon is a part) has developed in the past 40 million years and
that the Grand Canyon itself is probably less than five to six
million years old (with most of the downcutting occurring in the
last two million years). The result of all this erosion is one of
the most complete geologic columns on the planet.
The major geologic exposures in
Grand Canyon range in age from the 2 billion year old Vishnu
Schist at the bottom of the Inner Gorge to the 230 million year
old Kaibab Limestone on the Rim. Many of the formations were
deposited in warm shallow seas, near-shore environments (such as
beaches), and swamps as the seashore repeatedly advanced and
retreated over the edge of a proto-North America. Major exceptions
include the Permian Coconino Sandstone which was laid down as sand
dunes in a desert and several parts of the Supai Group.
The great depth of the Grand
Canyon and especially the height of its strata (most of which
formed below sea level) can be attributed to 5,000 to 10,000 feet
of uplift of the Colorado Plateaus, starting about 65 million
years ago (during the Laramide Orogeny). This uplift has steepened
the stream gradient of the Colorado River and its tributaries,
which in turn has increased their speed and thus their ability to
cut through rock (see the elevation summary of the Colorado River
for present conditions).
Weather conditions during the ice
ages also increased the amount of water in the Colorado River
drainage system. The ancestral Colorado River responded by cutting
its channel faster and deeper.
The base level and course of the
Colorado River (or its ancestral equivalent) changed 5.3 million
years ago when the Gulf of California opened and lowered the
river's base level (its lowest point). This increased the rate of
erosion and cut nearly all of the Grand Canyon's current depth by
1.2 million years ago. The terraced walls of the canyon were
created by differential erosion.
About one million years ago,
volcanic activity (mostly near the western canyon area) deposited
ash and lava over the area, which at times completely obstructed
the river. These volcanic rocks are the youngest in the canyon.
Human
History
Main: Grand
Canyon History
- The Basketmakers
- The Pueblo Anasazi
- Ancient Puebloan Occupation of
the Grand Canyon
- Nankoweap Canyon
- The Unkar Delta
- The Bright Angel Site
- Ancient Pueblo peoples leave
the Canyon
- The Cohonina
- The Sinagua
- The Pai (The People)
- The Hualapai (The People of
the Pine Trees)
- The Havasupai (The People of
the blue-green water)
- The Paiutes (The Water People)
- The Dineh (The People)
In September 1540, under orders
from the conquistador Francisco Vasquez de Coronado to search for
the fabled Seven Cities of Cibola, Captain Garcia Lopez de
Cardenas, along with Hopi guides and a small group of Spanish
soldiers, traveled to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon between
Desert View and Moran Point. Pablo de Melgrossa, Juan Galeras, and
a third soldier descended some one third of the way into the
Canyon until they were forced to return because of lack of water.
It is speculated that their Hopi guides must have been reluctant
to lead them to the river, since they must have known routes to
the canyon floor. Afterwards, no Europeans visited the canyon for
over two hundred years.
Fathers Francisco Atanasio
Domínguez and Silvestre Vélez de Escalante were two Spanish
Priests who, with a group of Spanish soldiers, explored southern
Utah and traveled along the North Rim of the Canyon in Glen and
Marble Canyons in search of a route from Santa Fe to California in
1776.
James Ohio Pattie, along with a
group of American trappers and mountain men, was probably the next
European to reach the Canyon in 1826, although there is little
documentation to support this.
Jacob Hamblin (a Mormon
missionary) was sent by Brigham Young in the 1850s to locate easy
river crossing sites in the Canyon. Building good relations with
local American Indians and white settlers, he discovered Lee's
Ferry in 1858 and Pierce Ferry (later operated by, and named for,
Harrison Pierce) - the only two sites suitable for ferry
operation.
In 1857, the U.S. War Department
asked Lieutenant Joseph Ives to lead an expedition to assess the
feasibility of an up-river navigation from the Gulf of California.
Also in a stern wheeler steamboat "Explorer", after two
months and 350 miles of difficult navigation, his party reached
Black Canyon some two months after George Johnson. The
"Explorer" struck a rock and was abandoned. Ives led his
party east into the Canyon — they were the first Europeans to
travel the Diamond Creek drainage and traveled eastwards along the
South Rim.
- The John Wesley Powell
River Expeditions
- The Brown-Stanton River
Expedition
- Other expeditions
- Miners
- "Captain" John
Hance
- William W. Bass
- Louis Boucher "The
Hermit"
- Seth Tanner
- Charles Spencer
- D. W. "James"
Mooney
- Lees Ferry
- John Doyle Lee
- Emma Lee (17th of John
Lee's 19 wives)
- J. S. Emmett
- Charles Spencer
- Phantom Ranch
- Grand Canyon Village
- Federal protection
Many challenges face the federal
government administrators who manage park resources. These include
issues related to: the recent reintroduction into the wild of the
highly endangered California Condor, air tour over-flight noise
levels, water rights disputes with various tribal reservations
that border the park, and forest fire management.
There are several historical
buildings located along the South Rim; most are in Grand Canyon
Village.
The El Tovar Hotel was
built in 1905 and is the most luxurious of all lodging located in
the South Rim. The hotel consists of 4 stories with a rustic and
swiss chalet look. It was designed by Charles Whittlesey. A gift
shop and restaurant are located inside the hotel.
Bright Angel Lodge
was built in 1935 and consisted of logs and stone. Mary Colter
designed the lodge and it was built by Fred Harvey. Inside the
lodge is a small museum honoring Fred Harvey who played a major
role in popularizing the Grand Canyon. In the history room is a
fireplace that is made of stone from the South Rim and it's
layered in the same sequence as the canyon.
Buckey O'Neill Cabin
was built during the 1890's by William Owen O'Neill. He built the
cabin because of a copper deposit that was nearby. He had several
occupations such as miner, judge, politician, author and tour
guide. This cabin is the longest continually standing structure in
the South Rim. It is currently used as a guest house and booking
is required well in advance.
Hopi House
was built by the Hopi in 1905. It is based on structures that were
built in an ancient Hopi settlement called Old Oraibi, located on
the Third Mesa in eastern Arizona. It served as a residence for
the Hopi Indians who sold arts and crafts to visitors in the South
Rim.
Verkamp's Curios
was built by John Verkamp in 1905. He sold arts and crafts as well
as souvenirs. It is currently run by his descendants and stands
next to the Hopi House.
Kolb Studio
was built in 1904 by brothers Ellsworth and Emery Kolb. They were
photographers who made a living by photographing visitors walking
down the Bright Angel Trail. In 1911, the Kolb brothers filmed
their journey down the Green and Colorado Rivers. This video was
constantly shown to visitors by Emery until 1976, when he died at
the age of 95.
Grand Canyon Depot
was built in 1909 and contains 2 levels. It is only 1 of 3 log
cabins currently standing in the United States and 1 of 14 ever
built in the country. The depot is the northern terminus of the
Grand Canyon Railway which begins in Williams, Arizona.
Lookout Studio
was built in 1914 and is another structure that was designed by
Mary Colter. Photography artwork, books, souvenirs and rock and
fossil specimens are sold here. A great view of Bright Angel Trail
can be seen here.
Desert View Watchtower
was built in 1932 and is one of Mary Colter's best-known works.
Situated at the far eastern end of the South Rim many miles from
Grand Canyon Village, the tower sits on a promontory and offers
one of the few views of the bottom of the Canyon and the Colorado
River. Designed to mimic an Anasazi watchtower, in actual size it
is larger than any known Anasazi tower.
Aside from casual sightseeing
from the South Rim (averaging 7000 feet) above sea level),
whitewater rafting, hiking and running are especially popular. The
floor of the valley is accessible by foot, muleback, or by boat or
raft from upriver.
Hiking down to the river and back
up to the rim in one day is discouraged by park officials because
of the distance, steep and rocky trails, change in elevation, and
danger of heat exhaustion from the much higher temperatures at the
bottom. Rescues are required annually of unsuccessful
rim-to-river-to-rim travelers. Nevertheless, hundreds of fit and
experienced hikers complete the trip every year. Weather is a
primary consideration because of late summer monsoons, so accurate
forecasts are imperative. While the park service posts weather
information at gates and visitor centers, this is a rough
approximation only, and should not be relied upon for trip
planning. For accurate weather in the Canyon, hikers should
consult the National Weather Service's NOAA weather radio or the
official NWS website.
The canyon is extremely popular
with endurance athletes, who regularly run across it. A one-way
trip (rim-to-rim) takes place in around five to seven hours, or a
round-trip (the rim-to-rim-to-rim or "doublecross") in
around 11-14 hours. Allyn Cureton of Williams, Arizona holds the
record for a north to south rim crossing at a staggering 3 hours
and 6 minutes, set in 1981.
On 11 November 2006, Kyle Skaggs
of Los Alamos, NM set a doublecross record (South Kaibab version)
of 7:37. Five runners (all experienced ultramarathon
runners) have finished a "canyon quad" (four crossings
in succession). Jim Nelson of Salt Lake City, Utah broke the speed
record on 6 November 1999 with a time of 22:48. Previous to this,
Wally Shiel established the quad record on 4 October 1987 with a
time of 24:45. Other finishers are Dana Miller of Parowan, Utah
(1993), Susan Gimbel (1994), and David Crockett of Saratoga
Springs, Utah (2006). Crockett added side trips on rim trails and
the Tonto Trail during his 39-hour journey to make his the first
100-mile uninterrupted continuous foot trip in the Canyon.
In March 2006, Phil Lowry of
Springville, UT finished a 56-mile noncorridor route in 18 hours,
travelling from Grandview Point to Phantom Ranch via the Tonto
Trail, then out and back to Clear Creek and back to the rim via
the Bright Angel Trail. In November 2006, Crockett accomplished
the first doublecross from North Kaibab to Hermits Rest and back.
The National Park Service
provides wheelchairs for temporary day use by park visitors for
free.
Grand Canyon National Park is one
of the world’s premier natural attractions, attracting about
five million visitors per year. Overall, 83% were from the United
States: California (12.2%), Arizona (8.9%), Texas (4.8%), Florida
(3.4%) and New York (3.2%) represented the top domestic visitors.
Seventeen percent of visitors were from outside the United States;
the most prominently represented nations were the United Kingdom
(3.8%), Canada (3.5%), Japan (2.1%), Germany (1.9%) and The
Netherlands (1.2%).
- George Wuerthner (1998). Grand Canyon: A
Visitor's Companion. Stackpole Books.
- Joseph Wood Krutch (1957). Grand Canyon:
Today and All Its Yesterdays.
- Stephen J. Pyne (1998). How the Canyon
Became Grand. Penguin.
- L. Greer Price (1999). An introduction to
Grand Canyon Geology. Grand Canyon Association. ISBN 0-938216-68-6.
- Michael F. Anderson (2001). Along the Rim.
Grand Canyon Association. ISBN 0-938216-75-9.
- Christa Sadler (2006). Life in Stone.
Grand Canyon Association. ISBN 0-938216-81-3.
- Thomas M. Myers and Michael P. Ghiglieri
(2001). Over the Edge: Death in Grand Canyon. Puma Press. ISBN
0-9700973-1-X.
- Macarthur Job (2001). Air Disaster Volume
4: The Propeller Era. Aerospace Publications. ISBN 1-875671-48-X.
- Edward Dolnick (2001). Down the Great
Unknown : John Wesley Powell's 1869 Journey of Discovery and Tragedy Through
the Grand Canyon. HarperCollins.
|
All text is available under the terms of the GNU Free Documentation
License.